Inspiration: The strong barber trend over the past two years has commanded a new found respect for discipline and precision and it is carrying over as the trends shift to slightly longer men’s hairdressing. European trends have always had a more gender neutral appeal where as the US market tends to demand a touch of masculinity, these silhouettes and textures honor both aesthetics. There are two finishes as male guests are jumping onto the dual identity wagon and asking for options in their daily styling.
Liam
CUT
- Isolate the top of the head above the parietal ridge and crown into one section and the round of the head at low parietal ridge to mid occipital into a second section
- Starting in the area that is left below the parietal ridge, begin with one-inch vertical sections at the front right hairline. Elevate to 90 degrees horizontal (parallel with the floor), establish a slight diagonal finger angle leaving a touch of length towards the perimeter without any over direction so that the length stays balanced front to back and point cut with the Sam Villa Signature Series 7” Dry Cutting Shear
- Continue this around to the other side using the previously cut section as a guide
- In the second area at parietal ridge, use the same process but make the diagonal finger angle more dramatic to create shortness at the round of the head
- Moving into the top, section off a 1 inch detached area along the front hairline and clip out of the way with a Sam Villa Dry Cutting Clip
- Take a one inch center radial section from the crown to the detachment at front hairline, elevate 90 degrees to the shape of the head, follow the head shape with finger angle and deep point cut
- Continue with radial sections moving to the outside using the previously cut section as a guide with no over direction
- For the detached area at front hairline, continue sections from last step and create a dramatic diagonal finger angle leaving length at the hairline. (this does not need to connect with the previous sections)
- Use a “pinch and talk” method to increase visual texture throughout the shape and to define perimeter lengths
- Use a “weave and blend” method to reduce weight in areas that appear heavy or solid
FINISH #1
- Apply Redken Pillow Proof Blow Dry Express Primer first and Redken Fashion Waves 07 second evenly throughout the hair
- Use hands to define the curl texture
- Diffuse all over with the Sam Villa Professional Ionic Blow Dryer with the Deep Bowl Diffuser attached
- Diffuse until completely dry with minimal disruption of the curl pattern
- Reapply Fashion Waves 07 to any areas that have lost definition
FINISH #2
- Apply Redken Pillow Proof Blow Dry Express Primer first and then about a nickel size of Redken for Men Grip Tight Holding Gel evenly throughout the hair
- Place a clean hard part one side of the head
- Connect the 3” nozzle to the blow dryer and press the hair out tightly to the head with the Sam Villa Signature Series 9 Row Brush
- Finish polishing any areas that are not perfectly smooth with the Sam Villa Sleekr iron
- Apply Redken Water Wax 03 (or more Grip Tight Holding Gel if the hair is more resistant) and define into place with the fine teeth of the Sam Villa Signature Series Short Cutting Comb
Joel
CUT
- Section the top along the parietal ridge, isolating the top from the sides with a Dry Sectioning Clip
- Section out a contoured arced parting diagonal-back from behind the ear to meet the parting created in the parietal area at the front hairline
- With an adjustable clipper fully closed (shortest setting) cut about ½ inch at the side burn area using a C stroke method at the end to allow a blend to the next length
- With each ½ inch open the clipper blade ¼ more to gradually build an arced burst fade within the section
- Utilizing the Sam Villa Handle Comb and the Sam Villa Signature Series Reversible Blending Shear, use a shear over comb method to blend from the faded area into the length at the parietal ridge keeping the teeth of the comb away from the head to maintain length at the top
- Continue blending from the faded area into the hair above and behind the ear with a razor over comb technique utilizing the Sam Villa Signature Series Razor with Straight Blade and the handle comb for maximum softness
- Take a vertical section in the center back from the low crown to the hairline.
- Elevate to 90 degrees horizontal, establish a diagonal finger angle that leaves length at the perimeter and remove the hair with the Sam Villa 7” Dry Cutting Shear starting at about one inch long at the top
- Continue with vertical sections moving out towards the ears on both sides over directing back to the previously cut section as your guide, which will maintain length and weight behind the ears.
- Repeat this same technique through the crown area this time using a vertical finger angle to maintain length at the top of the crown
- Take a radial section down the center of the top of the head. The small point starts at the center of the crown and moves to about ½ inch wide at the front hairline
- Elevate 90 degrees vertical, establish a diagonal finger angle using the guide previously cut in the crown to longer at the front hairline and cut with the 7” Dry Cutting Shear.
- Continue with radial sections moving towards the outside using the previously cut section as a guide.
- Refine by reducing weight and adding movement to heavy areas with the Sam Villa Signature Series InvisiBlend shear and detail the fringe into a sweeping fringe to one side
Finish #1
- Mist Redken Pillow Proof Blow Dry Express Primer throughout
- Wrap dry back and sides smooth to the head with the Sam Villa Signature Series 9 Row brush and Professional Ionic Blow Dryer
- Through the top, utilize the Sam Villa Signature Series Boar Bristle Small Round Brush to smooth and create a soft arc to the side that the fringe is swept to.
- Emulsify a pea size amount of Redken for Men Get Groomed Finishing Cream in the hands and then work through the hair for light control and movement
Finish #2
- Repeat same steps as above for back and sides
- Apply Redken Iron Shape 11 to the top area and directionally blow dry the hair in 1 inch sections towards the back corner
- Comb hair into a sleek pomp and finish with Redken Control Addict 28
Be sure to stalk Geneva Cowen and Sam Villa on Bangstyle for more styling tips and tricks!
Hair: Team Sam Villa
Artistic Director: Geneva Cowen
Photographer: Shalem Mathew
Makeup: Lorina Alailefaleula
Wardrobe: Chris Lehman
