From Marylin to Gwen - society has filled screens, magazines, and feeds with images of gorgeous ultra-light blonde locks for years. While the tone goal may have changed, the process and maintenance has stayed the same. What happens when your client decides to take the plunge? One of the first things we learn in the salon is to "check the foils for banana-peel blonde", that's when we know the color is just right. To ensure a perfect finish every time take a peek at our tops tips and techniques.
Humble Beginnings
The starting point helps determine not just your route, but also your destination. When going lighter stylists look at hair history, health and the current canvas. To determine if a light and bright shade is possible stylists need to set realistic expectations based on the starting point or base level, the color history and the health of the hair.
The Road Less Traveled
Once a stylist determines realistic goals with their client, the path to platinum begins. *Pro-tip: You never know what you might uncover when beginning a hair application on a new client, so remember to communicate properly about the process the entire time.
A few techniques to achieve banana-peel blonde:
Color Removers
If your client has previously used permanent, semi or demi color, chances are molecules have built up on their hair from going darker than their natural level. Color removers are an excellent way to shrink those color molecules and remove them from the hair prior to using bleach in order to decrease the risk of damage and get closer to the final goal.
Platinum Card
Platinum Card refers to a technique in which a thin slice of hair is foiled individually. This allows for maximum incubation of lightner/bleach and detailed color corrections if needed, it’s also great for clients who have had previous highlights in order to keep those separate and minimize damage. When picking volume of developer remember that higher volumes exert more power faster, but lower volumes can give you the same great result with more control.
Off-Scalp Bleach Application
Beauty school basics taught us that the scalp produces the most heat. Therefore, if we want an even result we need to focus on the midshaft first when bleaching, then move to the scalp and ends. There are exceptions for every rule and if your canvas is already significantly lighter than the color at the roots you may reassess your path.
Retouches
No matter how long it takes to get your client to the perfect baby blonde, retouches are a realistic part of any road to platinum and maintenance once they get there. Clients should anticipate this by prebooking for their retouches in order to avoid excessive grow out. Once a client has more than 1 to 1.5 inches of regrowth they become a double process due to the chance of banding. Which occurs as the result of trying to touch up too much root at the same time when the area closest to the scalp gets the lightest and leaves a warm ‘band’ next to the previous blonde.
Staying the Course
The single most challenging part about the road to platinum is not the work itself, but the patience during the journey. Stylists should always carry out an extensive consultation to ensure they are able to meet goals under realistic terms. As always, remind clients that they’ll need to be patient and plan for plenty of time to reach their ideal look and commit to touchups, toners and take-home products.
Styling Products To Support Your Client's Banana-Peel Blonde:
Keune Care Silver Savior Shampoo & Conditioner
KEVIN.MURPHY BLONDE.ANGEL.WASH & TREATMENT and SHIMMER.ME.BLONDE
Redken Color Extend Blondage Shampoo & Conditioner and Express Anti-Brass Mask
Written by: Nicoletta
