Ever since Kaia Gerber decided to make the chop, the bob - or the “drama cut” as she deemed it - has been popping up everywhere. The most important thing to remember about creating this shape for your clients is to take into account their texture and density. Because the bob is such a classically technical cut with a heavy weight line, it shouldn’t be executed with a “once size fits all” approach.
In this tutorial, Andrew Carruthers, Education Director for Sam Villa, takes us through how to achieve a blunt bob without surface texture with the perfect shape. His internal graduation technique will allow you to take out bulk from your shape while creating the coveted weight line and achieving volume at the same time. “Next time a guest wants a cool blunt bob that’s a bit leaner through the perimeter with the illusion of more fullness, international graduation is the way to go,” says Andrew Carruthers, Education Director for Sam Villa.
A key element he champions in the tutorial is to “texturize with intent” and to really stay in your lane and be organized when cutting. Consistency and the orientation of your shears have proven to be key here, which is why he chose the Sam Villa Streamline Series Shear 6.75” - for its ergonomic design as well as ability to achieve certain angles with ease. Follow along with the video and take a peek at his top tips for getting an effortless bob below.
Internal graduation on a blunt bob can be used to reduce the weight and bulk towards the perimeter edge. It gives the effect of layering and graduation without actually seeing any short pieces on the top surface. By placing the graduation on the inside of the shape through texturizing, it keeps the appearance of a solid bob, but gives a leaner shape that brings out a sense of volume.
“When the bottom of a bob is square, it makes the shape look flat on the top and sides, but when you tuck the ends, it takes on more of a roundness which gives the illusion of fullness,” says Carruthers. “Internal graduation is what helps build a leaner shape without a lot of surface texture or graduation.”
Tips
- Work efficiently and organized.
- Start in the center back.
- Work with vertical sections at about 45° elevation.
- Pin previous sections out of way before taking the next section to prevent creating holes.
- Keep finger angle and length of cutting as consistent as possible.
- Use the Sam Villa Streamline Series Shear 6.75”, the blade length allows for deep cutting and the ergonomical design with thumb cutouts allows for different cutting positions without the wrist bending in compromising positions.
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