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Various shifts took place throughout the week as designs were debuted at NYFW AW20. Traditional shapes and ideals are abandoned as bridal, bohemia, power statements and sartorialism reigned supreme. We’ll see the poncho as the bohemian response to the structured tailoring of blazers in past seasons as free-spirited bespoke floral designs, dramatic capes and eloquently exposed skin are everywhere this fall. 

Already echoing in current fashion, we’ve seen painterly florals and dramatic capes take center stage. The latest edits, in all their glitzy maximalism glory, are giving the audience a reason to “party”. As ready-to-wear designers capitalize on bridal, veils and fashion-forward gowns, they seem to be answering the call from consumers who are looking for more individualized looks. When it came to beauty, effortless individuality and inclusivity were everywhere. Colors appeared natural, texture was capitalized on, and styling gave way to low-maintenance looks that a consumer could easily recreate - be it glossy or a squeaky clean finish. Keep reading to see the styles that shined bright on the runway and a breakdown of the inspiration behind some of the most coveted looks on the runway from Redken Global Creative Director Guido Palau. 

 

Longchamp

Creative director Sophie Delafontaine brought a 70s Parisian vibe to a New York backdrop in her AW2020 ready-to-wear collection. Playing with proportions, we saw extra-large versions of their iconic weekenders mixed with mini versions of their ever-popular Le Pliage. Set at the Hudson commons, the grand city loomed behind the runway as accessories and shoes easily became the highlight of the show. The hair eloquently spoke to a Parisian charm - clean, middle parts, daintily pulled back and natural understated texture leading the way to a modern movement of strength. Redken Global Creative Director Guido Palau speaks more to how he achieved this look, noting that Redken’s NEW! Deep Clean Dry Shampoo was a big factor in creating the looks. 

“I’ve done a 70s ponytail with a nod to the classic French woman this season at the Longchamp show. We were very inspired by French movies when creating this look... there’s an effortlessness to it, with a modern twist. I prepped the low ponytail by creating a small center part in the front to enhance the head shape while keeping the hairline soft around the ears. My key products are Redken Extreme Play Safe to heat protect the hair, and Redken’s NEW! Deep Clean Dry Shampoo, which helps refresh style without a full shampoo, which is key for me backstage when I have to work quickly. It’s also great to add a touch of volume at the root, which lends itself to the 70s vibe very well.” – Redken Global Creative Director Guido Palau

 

GET THE LOOK:

  1. Prep hair by washing with Redken Extreme Shampoo and Conditioner.
  2. Apply a quarter-sized amount of Redken Extreme Play Safe to lengths and ends to heat protect up to 450 degrees.
  3. Blow-dry hair with a round brush, leaving it smooth.
  4. Once fully dry, create a center part with your fingertips going about 2 – 3” back on your head shape.
  5. If needed, apply a few spritzes of the NEW! Redken Deep Clean Dry Shampoo to your roots to add in some touchable volume.
  6. Pull your hair back into a low ponytail and secure with an elastic.
  7. Using your fingers, square off your hairline in the front and soften the hairline around your ears by allowing your baby hairs to peek through.
  8. If desired, use a 2” curling iron to create some bends in your lengths. Once cooled, run your fingertips through the bends to soften.

R13

Is this the new “Americana”? Gaining traction as a label that is redefining NYFW’s “cool factor” this season R13 appeals to everyone, not just a single “vibe”. Kaia Gerber opened this edgy show as western belts, over the top (literal) hats, cinched waists and a return to denim, leather and bold shoulders stole the show. There is an exaggeration we’re seeing here as sartorialism and crafting clothes that look great together comes into play - we’re looking forward to seasons of quality and timelessness. Capitalizing on the edgy “rocker” vibe, Redken Global Creative Director Guido Palau says, “I wanted to do a different take on a rocker, piecey look this season at R13 by creating a type of ‘faux bob’ on the models with longer hair. I’ve achieved this by looping the hair up at the crown and pinning it to hide some of the length. Then, I spritzed Redken Triple Dry 15 Dry Texturizing Spray throughout the lengths and ends to give a piecey vibe.” – Redken Global Creative Director Guido Palau.

 

GET THE LOOK:

  1. Prep hair by washing with Redken Frizz Dismiss Shampoo and Conditioner.
  2. Towel-dry hair.
  3. Apply a heavy amount of Redken Frizz Dismiss Rebel Tame to your lengths and ends for added definition.
  4. Scrunch your mid-lengths and ends throughout the entire drying process to enhance your natural texture.
  5. Once fully dry, begin taking 1” sections of hair and slightly loop at the crown area above your ear to visually shorten your ends into a long faux bob. Secure each section with a bobby pin as you go.
  6. Once all sections are lifted and secure, take a bandana and secure it around your head to hide the pins and give a rocker vibe. If desired, you could also use a hat.
  7. If needed, spritz a few spritzes of Redken Triple Dry 15 Dry Texturizing Spray throughout your lengths and ends and tousle for an added airy, piecey look.

 

Tory Burch

Among the floral tribe, Tory Burch found themselves at the helm. Models walked the runway weaving between Francesca DiMattio contemporary art sculptures as subtle takes of DiMattio’s style was seen in the pieces throughout the collection. Florals we’re everywhere - on dresses, separates and boots - as “bourgeois bohemianism” found a new fashion. This season, the styles showcased a new woman, one who is taking her power back by wearing what she wants and doing exactly what she wants. Seeing the designs as a spin of styles between vintages, Redken Global Creative Director Guido Palau created soft texture with a literal twist at Tory Burch’s FW20 NYFW Show.

“The hair at Tory Burch this season is a little 70s and a little Victorian. I’m using Redken Extreme Play Safe when blow-drying to heat protect and fortify the hair. My key product at this show is the NEW! Redken Deep Clean Dry Shampoo to absorb excess oil and product to revitalize the hair. I also love using it to give a touch of volume at the root. To create the twist, I’ve center-parted the hair and a pulled a small section on either side back that I’ve secured with an elastic. My trick is to also use the NEW! Redken Deep Clean Dry Shampoo under each section to add a touch of volume and texture to hold the look. Then, I flip the secured sections over to create the twist, and then used an iron just to create a little bit of a bend in the lengths.” – Redken Global Creative Director Guido Palau

 

GET THE LOOK:

  1. Prep hair by washing with Redken Extreme Shampoo and Conditioner.
  2. Apply a quarter-sized amount of Redken Extreme Play Safe to lengths and ends to heat protect up to 450 degrees.
  3. Blow-dry hair with a round brush, leaving it smooth.
  4. Once fully dry, create a center part with your fingertips.
  5. Apply a few spritzes of the NEW! Redken Deep Clean Dry Shampoo to your roots and in your face-framing pieces to add in some touchable volume.
  6. Take about a 1” section of hair on each side of your hairline and bring each section to the back middle of your head. Secure loosely with an elastic.
  7. Twist the secured pieces over themselves to create a rolled effect for soft glamour.
  8. Add a few bends throughout your lengths with a 2” iron. Once cooled, run your fingers through your lengths to soften.
  9. Spritz a few spritzes of Redken Triple Dry 15 Dry Texturizing Spray throughout your lengths and ends and tousle for an airy, soft look.

 

Carolina Herrera

Streamlining his vision, creative director Wes Gordon is transitioning the label while maintaining its effortless elegance. Visions of color made their way down the runway as striking silhouettes commanded attention with ease. The 17th-century Baroque painter Francisco de Zurbarán was credited for the inspiration behind this year’s bright designs and saturated colors. With this new focus, we’re seeing a streamlined design with nods to Valentino’s ruffles, layers and structure coming into its own though bespoke florals, veils and dresses that are ready to migrate from the runway to a real-life party. The beauty was minimal besides the occasional statement lip and hair was neatly pulled back from a center part to show off the vast designs leading the way for what Redken Global Creative Director Guido Palau calls a rich, modern look. “We’re here at the Carolina Herrera show where I’ve done a clean, modern, rich ponytail. My key product at this show is the newly-repackaged Redken Detox Hair Cleansing Cream, which helps to cleanse the hair of excess product and build-up without stripping it. The result is perfectly-prepped, luxurious-feeling hair that lends itself effortlessly to a simple, but luxe, look. I’ve pulled the models’ hair back, while slightly covering their ears, then loosely tied their lengths at the nape of the neck. Then, I’ve cleaned up any baby hairs and frizz with my other backstage must-have, Redken Triple Pure 32 Hairspray.” – Redken Global Creative Director Guido Palau

 

GET THE LOOK:

  1. Prep hair by washing with the newly-repackaged and hairstylist-favorite shampoo – Redken Detox Hair Cleansing Cream, which returns to shelves in March, to clarify hair and remove any product buildup without stripping.
  2. Apply a quarter-sized amount of Redken Extreme Play Safe to lengths and ends to heat protect up to 450 degrees.
  3. Blow-dry hair with a round brush, leaving it smooth.
  4. Center part your hair using a fine-toothed comb.
  5. Brush your hair back to the nape of your neck using a boar-bristled brush, leaving your ears covered.
  6. Loosely tie your hair with a hair elastic.
  7. Spritz a few spritzes of Redken Triple Pure 32 Hairspray over your whole look to hold and tame flyaways for a touch of richness.

 

Proenza Schouler

Traditional 90s New York was apparent at the AW2020 Proenza Schouler show as sharp angles, sculptured dresses and peacoat were seen everywhere. Exposing skin in a more classic take, shoulders were the focus as hair was slicked back and sheen and coats draped off the edge. There was a drawing force that defined the show, the power movement in society and dress as women evolved from muses to mavens. 

“We were inspired by strong, sexy, tough women in the 90s. I’m starting by blow-drying the hair with Redken Guts 10 for volume at the root to help obtain the square-ish, masculine shape. Then, I’m layering in Redken Hardwear Gel 16 throughout the lengths and ends with additional layers of Redken Guts 10 for the wet look, leaving the comb marks at the front. Once that sets, I’m finishing off the look with a few spritzes of Redken Shine Flash 02. I wanted it to look like the models had just gotten out of the shower and combed their hair back almost effortlessly, but of course at a show, we can’t have the models walking around with wet hair on the clothes… so this recreates that feeling.” – Redken Global Creative Director Guido Palau

 

GET THE LOOK:

  1. Start with clean, freshly-washed hair.
  2. Prep hair by working a palm-sized amount of Redken Guts 10 throughout the crown of your head.
  3. Blow dry hair using a round brush for added volume.
  4. Once hair is fully dry, take a heavy amount of Redken Hardwear Gel 16 and start working it in sections of your hair at the crown using a wide-toothed comb, intentionally leaving the marks and squaring off the shape for a masculine effect.
  5. Continue working the gel down your lengths and ends.
  6. Once your first layer is done, add a layer of Redken Guts 10 throughout your lengths and ends.
  7. Continue layering the two products until you’ve reached your desired effect.
  8. Clip hair close to your head shape on each side above your ear and allow it to set.
  9. Once hair has fully set, remove the clips.
  10. Spritz a few spritzes of Redken Shine Flash 02 throughout the whole look for a glossy effect.
  11. If needed, add a few spritzes of Redken Triple Pure 32 Hairspray throughout the whole lookd for added hold.

 

Coach

Creative director Stuart Vevers set forth more than just his designs, but a whole new attitude for AW2020. Through color blocking, midi lengths, vintage feels and brazen broad shoulders he updated the downtown 1980s look with a modern “Coach” feel. Luxury exuded everywhere as plush coats and dramatic textures juxtaposed his raw intentions. When it came to the hair, there were a few distinct looks that were created to bring out each models uniqueness.“We’re here at the Coach show where we’ve done a few looks at the show – some of the models have gotten haircuts, some are wearing hats, some have fake bangs, and some have their hair down.” Says Redken Global Creative Director Guido Palau. “I was inspired by the hair in The Breakfast Club for the looks. My two key products at this show are Redken Triple Dry 15 Dry Texturizing Spray and the NEW! Redken Deep Clean Dry Shampoo. I’m using both for a bit of texture – the dry shampoo is great for absorbing a bit of excess product and to add a touch of volume at the root. Redken Triple Dry 15 Dry Texturizing Spray adds an airiness that brings out each of the model’s unique personalities. Fake bangs are a great way to play with a new style without the full commitment.” 

GET THE LOOK:

  1. Start with clean, dry hair.
  2. Center part your hair using your fingers.
  3. Apply a few spritzes of the NEW! Redken Deep Clean Dry Shampoo to your roots to add in some touchable volume.
  4. If desired, add clip-in fringe for a fun twist on your look. Tousle hair at the crown to help blend.|
  5. If needed, use a 1-2” curling iron and add in some bends into your lengths.
  6. Once cooled, run your fingers through your lengths to soften the look.
  7. Spritz a few spritzes of Redken Triple Dry 15 Dry Texturizing Spray throughout your lengths and ends and tousle.

Marc Jacobs

Closing the AW2020 season of NYFW, the Marc Jacobs show at the Park Avenue Armory not only went out with a bang, but it also made several statements - both editorial and societal - while doing so. Taking a stance against gender, the designs juxtaposed itself pulling fashions from a post-modernist decade of traditional roles - aka the 60s. Pairing up with Miley Cyrus yet again, the singer walked his show in a bralette and trousers - both black - toting a zebra print coat beside her down the runway. The collection was a representation of different stages of life as well as diverse backgrounds, said the designer. It’s about New York and a return to the cultural makeup of the city. With a return to quality over quantity, monochrome outfits, short shifts with headbands, and an overarching mod feel captivated the audience who felt as though they were privy to a 60s film. Moving forward, diversity and inclusiveness are crucial as Redken Global Creative Director Guido Palau capitalized on the past, the present, and the future woman at Marc Jacobs’ FW20 NYFW Show.

“I’ve spent the last 3-4 days with Marc planning out this show. We were focused on three types of women: the past, the present, and the future. Marc is very passionate about style. This show is all about different styles, all in one genre, but in different points of time. He calls it ‘dynamic classicism,’ so there’s a classicness to the way the girls look. There are nods to different time periods: the 60s, 90s, but in a way that girls might wear their hair today. You’ll see girls with ponytails, deep side parts, scarves, hats, uptown girls, downtown girls… with Marc, there’s always and uptown and a downtown element to his looks. Marc is inspired by everyone – every kind of woman, every kind of man. There are some elegant hats in this show, a few hair looks like the on Bella, but the overall theme of the show is what prevails. I’ve prepped the looks with the newly-repackaged Redken Detox Hair Cleansing Cream, used Redken Triple Dry 15 Dry Texturizing Spray for natural texture, and used the NEW! Redken Deep Clean Dry Shampoo for some volume at the root and to absorb excess oil. It’s a very ‘Marc Jacobs’ show.”

 

GET THE LOOK:

  1. Prep hair by washing with the newly-repackaged Redken Detox Hair Cleansing Cream.
  2. Center part your hair using your fingers.
  3. Allow your hair to air-dry.
  4. Apply a few spritzes of the NEW! Redken Deep Clean Dry Shampoo to your roots to add in some touchable volume.
  5. If needed, use a 1-2” curling iron and add in some bends into your lengths.
  6. Once cooled, run your fingers through your lengths to soften the look.
  7. Spritz a few spritzes of Redken Triple Dry 15 Dry Texturizing Spray throughout your lengths and ends and tousle.

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