Colorists see it every day: A client comes into the salon requesting a dramatic transformation, expecting their pro to achieve the shade in a single process. Unfortunately, creating a drastic change requires more than meets the eye—there is an entire science to creating a client’s ideal look. Here, six ways to help clients seamlessly switch up their color this season.
Tip #1: Explain the difference between level and tone prior to coloring
It’s always important to have a thorough consultation with your client, namely, to give her an idea of what to expect. Talk to your client about which level (how light or dark a color is) you’re going to use and what type of tone (warm or cool) you want to achieve.
Tip #2: Take baby steps
Before coloring a client’s entire head of hair, do her a favor and test out different formulas on a few strands. That way, if the hair reacts negatively in any way, your client won’t be left with a head full of damaged or orange-toned locks. Doing so will also allow you to tailor the formula until it’s just right.
Tip #3: Perform a strengthening treatment prior to coloring
If you're taking a client from a warm shade to an ashy hue, offer her a protective treatment before dyeing the hair. For example, a bond protector is an ideal way to restore strength, softness and shine back into the hair before harsh bleach wreaks havoc on a client’s strands. They also essentially “prime” the hair for color and enhance the end result.
Tip #4: Utilize toner
As we said earlier, creating a client’s ideal hue is a science, and using toner to neutralize brassy tones is the key to achieving the perfect color. Ideal for clients hoping to achieve an ashy blonde or brown shade, an edgy silver or gray tone or even a funky pastel hue, toner can mean the difference between stunning color or a frightening, brassy mess.
Tip #5: Timing is everything
If you are making a drastic change, emphasize to your client the importance of achieving the color in stages. Yes, your raven-haired client may not walk out of the salon with shiny, golden-toned locks after her first appointment, but she will appreciate the fact that most of her hair is still intact after processing.
Tip #6: Hair health is key
Yes, it’s your job to transform clients’ locks, but their color will only look as good as they care for it. To ensure clients maintain their shade, provide them with written aftercare instructions and product recommendations, such as a toning shampoo, color-safe hydrating conditioner and a reparative hair mask. Another important tip? With summer around the corner, it’s also important to explain the harsh effects sun damage can have on hair color (i.e turn cooler tones yellow or brassy). Provide them with a recommendation for your favorite leave-in treatment with SPF and emphasize the importance of covering up their strands with a hat or scarf during the sun’s peak hours.
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