The Top 5 Tips for Cutting Long Layers

90s trends revisited left many clients with long hair sans many layers. As we round the corner to a new season, clients are finding that a little bit of movement goes a long way. This is why we’re seeing more face-framing layers everywhere we look. No matter what the final length, adding more layers around the face gives more versatility to any cut. According to Mandy McCullough, Sam Villa Ambassador and owner of Fix Salon (Seattle) @FancyFinish, face-framing layers are the answer to “I want something new and on-trend, but I don’t want to lose any length.” This mantra is something we’ve all heard before from long hair clients. To add this skill to your repertoire watch her demonstrate how to cut a perfect “U” or “V” draped perimeter with face-framing layers, fullness and movement in the video below!

“Add the wrong layers and the results can leave hair looking thin and sparse on the ends. Knowing how to strategically add texture and remove bulk can create hair that holds a blowout or iron wave for days!” adds McCullough who suggests using a Blow Dry Hot Brush to refine the look.

Tips for Cutting Layers

1. Sectioning: Instead of starting with 4 quadrants to cut the perimeter, cut each quadrant in half and use 8 sections. These smaller sections allow more control in changing the perimeter length from the front to back.

2. Guides: Before cutting the perimeter cut guides to follow. Cut one in the back for the finished length, near the jawline for the front length, and one that hits somewhere in the middle front of the shoulders. Connect the guides with shears or razor.

3. Dry Hair: Add layers once hair is dry to better read the hair and how it will fall. Try the Sam Villa Signature Series Dry Cutting Shear 7”, the longer blades are convenient for cutting longer lengths.

4. Graduation: Utilize swelling graduation by elevating layer sections up over the head shape until they wrap over the top of the head and then cut. The wrapping creates maximum elevation which maintains length in the perimeter and creates full rounded layers.

5. Movement: Remove weight to add movement on long hair by point cutting the ends to blend and soften the shape. Then use a texture or slide cutting shear - elevate section as if adding layers but remove weight from the midshaft.